INCI Name:
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Description
Patented combination between azelaic acid and glycine. It addresses uneven skin tone, significantly improving skin brightness, and acts as well on localized dark spots whether they are caused by UV / age, melasma or acne. It is able to both prevent hyperpigmentation and reduce already existing dark spots. It also provides elasticizing, hydrating and sebum normalizing properties (perfect match for mature greasy skins). It is as well an anti-inflammatory agent able to reduce IL-1α release, while in hair care it is recommended for anti-hair loss treatments as it is able to reduce 5α-reductase, enzyme involved in hair loss disorders. Recommended for a pH range from 5 to 11.
Applications
- Skin brightening products
- Dark-spots treatments (acne, sun or age spots, melasma)
- Anti-aging skincare products
- Mature greasy and acne-prone skins
- Anti-hair loss treatments
- Multifunctional make-up
Mechanism of Action
Azeloglicina® inhibits the synthesis of melanine by reducing the production of the enzyme Tyrosinase. It is also able to reduce the expression of the 5α-reductase, enzyme responsible for the conversion of testosterone into DHT, implicated in various skin disorders such as acne vulgaris, hirsutism, seborrhoea, telogen effluvium and androgenic alopecia
Key features
- Brightens overall skin complexion
- Reduces hyper pigmentation and dark spots
- Treats uneven skin tone promoting light reflection
- Sebum regulating activity
- Moisturizing and elasticizing activity
- Lightens skin with better results compared to Kojic acid and Arbutin
- Counteracts a precursor of hair loss
Usage Dosage
3- 10%
Form
Clear liquid
Efficacy tests
In Vitro
- Anti-inflammatory activity
- Melanine reduction
- Depigmenting activity
- 5α-reductase inhibition
In Vivo
- Radiance on Caucasian and Asian skins
- Reduction of UV/age induced dark spots, acne-spots, melasma
- Hydration, elasticity
- Sebum normalization
